Around Rhodesia No. 3

Lake Kariba - Sinoia Caves - Salisbury - The Midlands



LAKE KARIBA

Lake Kariba is many things — 5 000 square kilometres of blue, island-studded water, fringed by mountains — a year-round source of water for an abundant animal and bird life — a playground for water-sport enthusiasts — and home of the most challenging fresh-water fishing in Africa.

Yet it was never intended to be any of these things, for the damming of the Zambezi River by the slender 128-metre-high concrete wall, completed in 1961 ( picture A), was undertaken to provide hydro-electric power for the industries of Rhodesia and Zambia.

Twenty years ago the remote Zambezi Valley, now inundated for ever, was the home of the Batonka people, whose quaint homes, built on stilts, may be seen today at Kariba's Craft Village (inset A3). The Batonkas held that the river spirit, Nyaminyami (inset A1) would never allow the completion of the dam, and often refused to leave their villages until they were forced to by the rising waters. They still believe he waits, in the depths of the lake, to free the river from its bondage. When the great gates in the dam wall are opened, each discharging 1,5 million litres of water a second, it is easy to imagine a primitive and hostile force at work.

Humans were not the only ones displaced by the lake as it grew. Animals were marooned on hilltops that overnight became islands, and which often disappeared altogether. To rescue them, Operation Noah was organised, and thousands of animals, from elephants to snakes, were saved in an operation that caught the imagination of the world. At Kariba township which is built on steep hills 370 metres above the lake, less than 20 years ago there was only a construction



camp for workers on the dam and power station. Since then development has been rapid, particularly along the wooded lake shore (main picture right). Here hotels and harbours have been created, providing sophisticated amenities for the many tourists who drive on modern highways, or fly on Air Rhodesia's daily scheduled service, to this popular holiday area.

There are five modern hotels at Kariba township each with its own individual character (inset B5), and all overlook the lake. There is also a choice of caravan and camping parks, for the warm climate at Kariba encourages the outdoor life.

A day of sightseeing at Kariba township may include a visit to the dam wall, and a tour of the township with its many viewpoints over the lake and its unique church of St Barbara (inset 6) which is built in the shape of a coffer dam and which commemorates the workers who lost their lives in the construction of the dam and power station.

The visitors may also hire sailing dinghies and power boats from a number of operators, learn to water ski, or join regular cruises. Everyone who visits Kariba should embark on the lake, for it is only from this vantage point that the immensity of this inland sea can be appreciated.

Some cruises skirt the shoreline and visitors may see, particularly in the late afternoons, animals coming to drink or wallow in the shallows.

A visit to the Kariba crocodile farm (inset B4) is an opportunity to see at close quarters, and photograph, hundreds of these reptiles, from those a few centimetres long to three-metre giants.

In the evenings hotels often hold dances, film shows are provided, and a visit to the Kariba Casino is an opportunity to play roulette (insert A2), blackjack or chemin de fer.



Beyond the developed area of Kariba township near the dam wall, Lake Kariba extends westwards for 281 kilometres. This is largely untouched wilderness, where small lake-shore resorts and safari companies provide facilities for the visitor who wishes to enjoy the solitude and scenic splendour of these remote areas with their superb game-viewing and fishing.

Communications between Kariba township and other areas of the lake are comprehensive. For those short of time a convenient and speedy float-plane charter service ( picture C left) may be utilised. This company also offers game-viewing and scenic flights. A large ferry vessel (inset C2) provides both short cruises and extended game-viewing and fishing safaris, with passengers sleeping on board at a sheltered anchorage each night Boat operators also hire a range of craft,from fishing boats to fast cruise boats (inset C1), all under the care of licensed coxswains.

The largest body of water at Kariba is the vast eastern basin, which extends 32 km south from Kariba township and 65 kilometres from the eastern shore to the resort hotel of Bumi Hills.

Along the southern shore, extending west from the dramatic Sanyati Gorge (the entrance to which can be seen towards the left-hand side of the main picture above), is the 1 370 square-kilometre Matusadona National Park. This is a scenic area rich in wild life, and on islands facing the mountains (main picture above) safari operators have established permanent camps from which unique opportunities for viewing and photographing game are provided (insets D4 & D5).
There is also camp accommodation within the national park itself.

At the western end of Lake Kariba are resorts such as Binga (inset D3) and Mlibizi (inset D6) which may be reached by float plane from Kariba township or from turnoffs from the Bulawayo to Victoria Falls highway. From these resorts, or indeed anywhere on the lake, the visitor may pit his skill against the formidable tiger-fish, one of the world's most fierce fighters. Tiger-fish are not the only quarry for the angler, for bream, chessa, nkupi and vundu also provide good sport.

SINOIA CAVES



The visitor who travels by road south from Kariba, after having climbed from the lower-lying area around the lake to the highveld, passes through an interesting combination of bushveld and highly developed farming country.

On this road is one of Rhodesia's most dramatic minor tourist attractions, the Sinoia Caves.

Here there is a huge natural shaft, 30 metres across and 45 metres deep. At the bottom of this shaft is a pool of crystal-clear water that divers have proved is at least 100 metres deep. The pool may be reached by a long sloping passage through the limestone rock, and due to the lack of surface reflection the impression one gains as one descends is of a vivid blue light.

When the shore of the pool is reached the water is so clear that fish and underwater rock formations may be seen many metres below the surface. Side passages lead the visitor to other viewpoints, both of the pool and the vertical limestone cliffs which rise to a tree-fringed view of the sky.

Archaeologists have found traces of occupation in the caves dating back to the Stone Age, and Selous, the Victorian hunter, naturalist and author, came across these caves in the 1880s on one of his many safaris.

Today the caves are a recreational park, and an hotel and caravan and camping park provide facilities for the visitor. The town of Sinoia, eight kilometres from the caves, is a fast-developing centre of an important farming and mining area, and another hotel and comprehensive shopping facilities may be found here.South of Sinoia, the visitor crosses a range of hills known as the Great Dyke. These hills, which are rich in chrome and other metals, extend like a spine for 550 kilometres from one end of Rhodesia to the other. Beyond the Dyke, the motorist passes through farming country to Rhodesia's capital city, Salisbury.

SALISBURY



Salisbury was born on September 13,1890, when the Pioneer Column raised the flag after their long and hazardous journey from what was then Bechuanaland.

The spacious, modern city (the commercial centre of which may be seen in the main picture right) that has risen from such recent and humble origins is the capital of Rhodesia, has a population of half a million (all races) and extends over 536 square kilometres. Here the visitor may enjoy all the comforts and amenities expected of a modern city.

There is accommodation to suit every taste and pocket, from four-star hotels to modest guest-houses. Tour operators provide a full range of daily tours of the city and surrounding areas, there is a choice of car-rental agencies, and a comprehensive taxi service.

As the capital, Salisbury is the administrative, judicial and communications centre of the country. In the Rhodesian Parliament, the visitor may watch the legislators at work (inset F1) and, when the House of Assembly or Senate are not sitting, conducted tours of the building with its historic possessions are permitted.

The visitor may also find the National Archives galleries with their displays of Thomas Baines' paintings and other historical treasures, of interest. Certainly the Queen Victoria Museum with its lifelike displays depicting the history of man and animals in Mashonaland should not be missed.

One of the glories of Salisbury, softening the hard lines of high-rise modern buildings, is the display of colour afforded by the flowering trees which line the streets (inset F2). In September and October the purple jacarandas give their name to the city's annual festival held in early October, when cultural and sporting events provide a concentrated programme of entertainment.

The jacarandas are followed by the brilliant flamboyants, the spathodias, bauhinias and many others. More natural colour may be seen in the Cecil Square flower market (inset F2), where vivid local and exotic blooms provide an extensive, ever-changing display.

The visitor's shopping interest will naturally focus on the many curio shops in the city. Goods in glowing Rhodesian copper and animal skins are available, and some shops specialise in authentic products made by African villagers in local natural materials (inset G2). Sculptures in wood and soapstone are of a very high quality and are frequently available at bargain prices.

Displays of African sculpture and art may also be seen at the National Gallery (inset G1) where collections representing the principal European schools are also on display. Specialised exhibitions are also held throughout the year.

Entertainment at night is provided by theatres, cinemas and night clubs (inset G4). The city also has a very wide range of restaurants, offering menus from all corners of the world. The visitor should also ensure he samples Rhodesia's national dish — a man-size steak.

Sport plays an important part in the Rhodesian weekend, and the visitor may visit the beautiful Borrowdale racecourse on the outskirts of the city (inset G3) where meetings are held throughout the year. Regular trotting races are also held at another track. In their season, rugby, football, cricket, tennis, polo, and many other sports may be watched.

With its abundance of open spaces Salisbury offers a choice of over a dozen golf courses, some within sight of the city centre's high-rise buildings. Visitors will find the green fees to be most reasonable. There are also many bowls clubs where the visitor will find a warm welcome.

Salisbury also has an international standard motor-racing circuit at Donnybrook on the outskirts of the city. Here racing, from Formula I to motor-cycles, takes place regularly during the year. The exciting sport of motor-cycle scrambling also takes place here during most weekends.

There are places of interest beyond the immediate city area. Ewanrigg Botanical Garden (inset H8) 35 kilometres from Salisbury is a world-famous display of colourful aloes and ancient palm-like cycads. These are seen at their best during the peak flowering periods of July and August, but are an impressive sight at any time of the year. The 24 hectares of landscaped gardens are set within 283 hectares of natural woodland.



12 kilometres south of Salisbury is an area of massive granite rocks which vividly display one of the memorable features of the Rhodesian landscape, its granite rock formations. Sculptured by rain and wind, many formations have acquired fantastic balancing shapes (inset H5). On the sheltered faces of some of these features are ancient rock paintings.

35 kilometres west of the city is Lake Mcllwaine, the country's third-largest lake and, like all the others, man-made (inset H7). This 57-square-kilometre stretch of water and its shoreline form the Robert Mcllwaine Recreational Park.

The north bank of the lake has been developed to provide recreational facilities, including an hotel, restaurants, and caravan and camping sites.

On the southern shore the natural surroundings have been protected and an extensive game park established. The combination of woodland and lake-side environments has also encouraged an unusually wide variety of bird life and some ornithologists have made counts of over 200 species in a single day.

On the road from the city to Lake Mcllwaine is a private lion and cheetah park where the photographer will find opportunities of making a close study of lion (inset H6), cheetah and many other species kept here.

THE MIDLANDS



The Midlands of Rhodesia may be said to extend from Gatooma in the north to Selukwe in the south.

Although the province does not possess any of the internationally famous tourist attractions which draw the visitor to Rhodesia, there are many areas in and around the principal population centres which are of more than passing interest Each urban centre offers a choice of hotel accommodation, and there are numerous caravan and camping parks. Golf clubs and sporting clubs welcome visitors.

Gwelo (picture I1) is the largest centre in the Midlands and is the provincial capital. In addition to being an important communications and administration centre, it is a major industrial complex and a focus for the flourishing cattle ranches which surround it.

Established in 1894, the city now has a population of 68 000 (all races). Its shopping facilities are varied and sophisticated, and accommodation for visitors is provided in a choice of hotels and a centrally situated caravan park.

Near the municipal offices, which are designed in a distinctive Rhodesian-colonial style of architecture, is a large and attractive public park, and there is also a public swimming pool. Adjacent to the park is the Midlands Museum (inset 2), which specialises in military history, and a modern theatre. For the sportsmen, there is a championship-rated 18-hole golf course and four thriving sports clubs, which welcome visitors.

Gwelo also has its own light railway, which operates on Sunday afternoon and most public holidays on a track adjacent to the main railway station.

Boating, fishing and other recreational facilities are provided at Whitewaters and Gwenoro Dam, near the city.

South of Gwelo is the scenic area of Selukwe, which is situated on the edge of the central highveld. From drives which wind up into the steep hills surrounding this small town, some of the finest scenic views in Rhodesia may be obtained. Streams descending from the peaks form many picturesque waterfalls such as the Dunraven and Camperdown falls (picture I3).



Within the Midlands area are the Sebakwe Recreational Park (inset J4) and the Ngezi Recreational Park (inset J6). Both have been created around small lakes and offer a quiet retreat for the visitor in pleasant scenic surroundings. There are also opportunities for game-viewing and fishing. Fully furnished National Parks accommodation and caravan and camping sites are available at both parks.

Que Que, halfway between Bulawayo and Salisbury, was established when the Globe & Phoenix Mine was pegged on the site of ancient gold workings in 1894. The headworks of the mine still dominate the town, but although it once produced the world's richest gold ore, its palmy days are over.

A few kilometres north of the town is the Dutchman's Pool Dam, a recreational complex that offers boating, fishing, caravan and camping facilities and a game park, Sable Park, where a small population of this majestic antelope (picture J7) may be seen. South of the town is Redcliff, where Rhodesia's massive iron and steel producing complex is situated.

Gatooma, the northernmost principal centre of the Midlands, is a typical Rhodesian small town, dominated by its attractive, colonial-style Magistrate's Court building (picture J5). In recent years the establishment of a cotton ginnery and weaving mills has established the town as the country's spinning and cotton centre. The most modern abattoir in Africa, capable of handling 500 carcasses per eight hour shift, is also sited here, as ranching is a major agricultural activity in the surrounding area.



FOR FURTHER READING
Local detailed information on the areas described in this brochure is provided by publicity associations. Enquiries relating to hotels, shopping facilities, banking and other services should be addressed to these associations, many of which maintain information bureaux.

Gatooma Regional Development and Publicity Association, P.O. Box 10, Gatooma.

Gwelo Publicity Association, P.O. Box 295, Gwelo. Information Bureau: Civic Theatre, Livingstone Avenue, Phone 2226.

Kariba and District Publicity Association, P.O. Box 86, Kariba. Information Bureau: Kariba Service Station, Phone 369, Kariba.

Que Que Publicity Association, P.O. Box 525, Que Que.

Redcliff Publicity Association, P.O. Box 100, Redcliff.

Salisbury Publicity Association, P.O. Box 1483, Salisbury. Information Bureau: Cecil Square, Second Street/Stanley Avenue, Phone 705085, Salisbury.

Further information on national and recreational parks may be obtained from the Department of National Parks & Wildlife Management's Central Booking Office, P.O. Box 8151, Causeway, Salisbury; Africa House, 100 Stanley Avenue, Salisbury, phone 706077.

For information, maps and brochures on other parts of Rhodesia, enquiries should be made to the Rhodesia National Tourist Board, P.O. Box 8052, Causeway, Salisbury, Rhodesia, phone 706511. The Board also maintains offices in:

Johannesburg: President Place, 148 Jan Smuts Ave., Lower Rosebank, phone 788-1748.

Durban: 315 Smith Street, Durban Club Place, Durban 2901, phone 32-3671.

Cape Town: 2219 Trust Bank Centre, cnr. Adderley and Riebeeck streets, phone 41-2774.

© Rhodesia Calls (Pvt.) Ltd. Reprinted from Rhodesia Calls by Mardon Printers, Salisbury, for the Rhodesia National Tourist Board.

End of Article

Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Diarmid Smith. Thanks Diarmid

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.
Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail me on orafs11@gmail.com

Around Rhodesia No. 2

Victoria Falls - Wankie National Park - Bulawayo - the Matopos



VICTORIA FALLS

Rhodesia's Victoria Falls is one of the largest and most beautiful waterfalls in the world — and certainly the most accessible. Here the Zambezi River, the only major river in Africa to flow eastwards to the Indian Ocean, widens to 1 700 metres, and plunges into a vertical chasm across its complete width. This massive rent in the earth, carved out by thousands of years of water action, varies from 70 to 108 metres deep.

The force of the falling water — 545 million litres per minute during the flood season — sends spray clouds spinning high into the sky. These clouds of spray, which often reach over 500 metres high, give rise to the African name for the Victoria Falls — Mosi oa tunya, the smoke that thunders. The main picture opposite was taken during the dry season and was chosen for its unobscured view of the Falls.

Doctor Livingstone, on November 16, 1855, was the first white man to see this mighty cataract. His first view of the Falls, which he named after Queen Victoria, was an unusual one, for he was canoed down river to a large island on the lip of the chasm (now named Livingstone Island, and the large island in the centre of the main picture).

Today a large bronze statue of this great explorer and missionary gazes east along the line of the Falls with which he is so closely associated (inset A1).

The warlike Matabele became the overlords of the Africans who guided Livingstone to his vantage point, and the way of life they led in the nineteenth century may be seen in the Victoria Falls Craft Village (inset A3), where the home of a man and his three wives, complete with huts, furnishings and implements has been reconstructed. Associated with the village is a colony of African craftsmen who carve in stone, wood and bone, and a small weaving centre.

Displays of traditional African dancing at two of the hotels also provide the visitor with a glimpse of the African past (inset A4).

Livingstone walked thousands of kilometres to gain his sight of the Victoria Falls. Today's visitor may drive to the area on modern highways, travel by train in a sleeping compartment, or fly in on Air Rhodesia's daily scheduled services, which link the Falls with other tourist centres in Rhodesia, as well as Johannesburg in South Africa.

Where Livingstone camped in a tent, today's tourist may choose from a range of five hotels (inset A2), stay in serviced chalets in the village or fully-equipped cottages in the national park, camp in a centrally situated site, or park in a luxury caravan site on the bank of the Zambezi River.

Amusements in the evening may include a visit to one of the two casinos (inset A5).

All this is a far cry from the Victoria Falls Livingstone knew — but although development has taken place to cater for the visitor's comfort and convenience, the area of the Falls themselves has remained virtually untouched. No commercialisation has been allowed to intrude on the spectator's appreciation of this unique natural wonder.

The Victoria Falls, in its entirety, is 1 700 metres wide, and comprises five distinct waterfalls. From the west, the visitor first sees the great plunge of the Devil's Cataract ( picture,B), a 30-metre-wide, 70-metre fall that has eroded the rock 10 metres below the average fall line. From a viewpoint overlooking the Devil's Cataract the visitor may look along the gorge, with the Rain Forest on the right (inset 1). Next are the 93-metre-high Main Falls (cover) where the major flow of water over the Victoria Falls occurs.

To the east of the Main Falls is Livingstone Island. A narrow, slightly crescent-shaped falls, named Horseshoe Falls, is seen next, passing into the highest of all the cataracts, the 108-metre-high Rainbow Falls (inset B2). On the eastern end of the Falls is the 101-metre-hiah Eastern Cataract.

The highest point of the Victoria Falls occurs almost opposite the narrow gap through which the entire flow of the Zambezi River escapes into the Boiling Pot, passing under the railway and road bridge, 102 metres above the water, into the deep, zigzagging gorges beyond (inset B3).

The visitor may enjoy near and obscured views of all these distinct waterfalls from a network of paths which lead along the opposite bank of the gorge into which the Zambezi River plunges. Due to the constant showers falling from the spray clouds, much of this area is covered by a dense and luxuriant Rain Forest.

For an overall view of the Victoria Falls, such as that shown on the previous page, air-trips in twin-engine aircraft are operated (inset B4) from an airfield on the outskirts of the village. The company also operates game-viewing flights up the Zambezi River above the Falls.

Apart from the Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River, there is much for the visitor to see in the surrounding area. In the nearby 56 000 hectare Victoria Falls National Park there is a wide variety of animal and bird life, and the area is noted for its large numbers of stately sable antelope ( picture C).

There are also many curio shops, each one carrying a variety of products to suit every taste and pocket (inset C5). At the Crocodile Ranch the visitor may see over 2 000 live reptiles, from those only 50 cm in length, to some 4,5 metres long (inset C6).

The Zambezi River is 2 800 km long, and the Victoria Falls occurs 1 300 km from its source in the Central African Highlands and 1 500 km from its delta at Quelimane on the Indian Ocean. This great body of permanently flowing water encourages the growth of rich riverine forest along its banks, and on his journey downstream to the Falls, Livingstone was so struck by its beauty that he forsook his normal dour phraseology and wrote in his daily journal: "Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight".

Today, the visitor to the Victoria Falls may also share this experience, for daily cruises by comfortable river-boats (inset D1) are operated on the wide river some kilometres above the Falls. Often elephant and other animals are seen coming to the river to drink, particularly near the national parks cottages, and occasionally hippo (inset D2) are seen in the river itself. One of the most popular cruises is held near sunset, when the unforgettable sight of an African sun shedding its colours on the waters and the western sky (main picture, above) is a wonderful climax to a day of sightseeing. For the fisherman (inset D3), the river abounds in the long-toothed tiger-fish, succulent tilapia, giant vundu and many other species. Licences are not required.

WANKIE NATIONAL PARK

Wankie National Park is a place — and an experience. Within its 14 620-square- kilometres of unspoiled wilderness the protected wild life and natural vegetation reflect the diversity and interdependence of nature that has long disappeared from the manipulated environment in which the mass of humanity lives today.

Here the receptive visitor will find an opportunity to throw off the routine of his man-centred world and become a spectator.

For many the sight of zebra caught in the light of an afternoon sun (picture E) will be the highlight of their visit. For others, it will be watching a herd of elephant at close quarters from the safety of one of the game-viewing platforms erected at some of the principal water-holes (inset E2).

The visitor will find that by and large the wild life will ignore him or, at most, find him a temporary irritant if he intrudes too far into their world — then the elephant will trumpet at him, or make a fearsome mock charge, while the smaller animals will melt away into the surrounding bush.

Although for most visitors to Wankie the greatest attraction is the variety of wild life that may be seen, the wide range of plant life forms a splendid backdrop to any scene — from the teak forests in the southern part of the park to the thin shade of the mopani forests in the central and northern areas.

While Wankie remains wild and untouched, the needs of the modern visitor have been catered for and he may reach the park on wide, modern highways, or even by daily Air Rhodesia scheduled services to the park's own airport (inset E1).

There are 107 species of animals — from the elephant to the shrew— and 401 species of birds in Wankie National Park. Yet the visitor who proceeds through the park with a checklist and a pencil will not gain the enjoyment or the lasting memories of the person who waits and watches.

An elephant is an elephant to the first visitor, but to the second it is a member of a family group, the behaviour of which is fascinating as they take their turn at the water-hole, waiting until a previous herd has left before drinking and wallowing to cover their skins with mud as a protection against biting insects (main picture G). Even the crocodile (inset F 2) vacates the water when a large herd arrives.



Among the other larger species to be seen are buffalo (main picture, left), while there are numerous species of antelope, of which the impala (inset F 4) are among the most appealing and widespread.



Although lion are numerous in the national park (inset G 6), they are more frequently seen in the northern areas, near Robins Camp.

Bird life is also prolific in Wankie, and among the colourful species which may be seen are the yellow hornbill and glossy starling (inset F 3), particularly within the camps themselves. Although Wankie relies for its appeal on remaining an unspoiled and undeveloped wild life area, accommodation for the visitor is comfortable and in keeping with the natural surroundings (inset F 1).

Within the park are three camps — Main, Sinamatella, and Robins — all providing serviced accommodation, caravan and camping facilities, and liquor-licensed restaurants. From these camps networks of game-viewing roads connect with a central road system on which the visitor may travel through the park from camp to camp (although cars towing caravans are not permitted to travel within the park).

Main Camp is situated within a few kilometres of the Wankie National Park airport; Sinamatella is built on a plateau commanding views of the surrounding plains; and Robins is the most northerly camp in the park.

Near Main Camp, and just outside the national park, is a luxury hotel, and even here wild animals come to drink at a waterhole overlooked by its extensive grounds (inset G 5).

The species of game more likely to be seen in the areas surrounding Wankie's three camps are:

Main Camp — zebra, giraffe, kudu, elephant, steenbok, warthog, buffalo, wildebeest, sable, lion, black-backed jackal, hyena, bat-eared fox.

Sinamatella — impala, kudu, elephant, warthog, giraffe, hippo, klipspringer, hyena, lion, leopard.

Robins — impala, waterbuck, buffalo, kudu, elephant, giraffe, sable, roan, reedbuck, lion, hyena, side-striped jackal, cheetah, tsessebe.

The reason for the abundance of certain species in particular areas depends on the living requirements of the species concerned, and how the plant life of the area satisfies their needs.

The visitor, intent on photography, would do well to remember that sudden movement is an alarm signal to wild animals and that any approach should be slow and gradual. This applies particularly to the skittish wildebeest (inset H 2). Visitors should also remember that animals see humans first, especially when they enjoy the lofty view of a giraffe (main picture, above).

A new development in accommodation is the creation of bush camps where, far from the normal visitor's route, facilities for single groups of up to 12 people are provided. From these camps visitors may explore the surrounding area and game view on foot (inset H1).

Foot safaris are also operated from the hotel near Main Camp seen in the areas surrounding Wankie's three camps are:

Main Camp — zebra, giraffe, kudu, elephant, steenbok, warthog, buffalo, wildebeest, sable, lion, black-backed jackal, hyena, bat-eared fox.

Sinamatella — impala, kudu, elephant, warthog, giraffe, hippo, klipspringer, hyena, lion, leopard.

Robins — impala, waterbuck, buffalo, kudu, elephant, giraffe, sable, roan, reedbuck, lion, hyena, side-striped jackal, cheetah, tsessebe.

The reason for the abundance of certain species in particular areas depends on the living requirements of the species concerned, and how the plant life of the area satisfies their needs.

The visitor, intent on photography, would do well to remember that sudden movement is an alarm signal to wild animals and that any approach should be slow and gradual. This applies particularly to the skittish wildebeest (inset H 2). Visitors should also remember that animals see humans first, especially when they enjoy the lofty view of a giraffe (main H picture, above).

A new development in accommodation is the creation of bush camps where, far from the normal visitor's route, facilities for single groups of up to 12 people are provided. From these camps visitors may explore the surrounding area and game view on foot (inset H1).

Foot safaris are also operated from the hotel near Main Camp.

CITY OF BULAWAYO



Bulawayo is Rhodesia's second-largest city and one of the country's major commercial and industrial centres (main picture I). It was founded in 1894, on the site of the kraal of Lobengula, the last of the Matabele kings.

In Rhodesia's early days, Bulawayo was its principal centre, and was visited many times by Cecil John Rhodes. There are in and around the city numerous historical sites associated with the country's founder, and in the main street is a bronze of Rhodes (inset I 1), which it is claimed was the only statue for which he actually posed. Characteristically, he faces north.

In 80 years Bulawayo has expanded and grown into one of Rhodesia's most attractive cities. Its wide tree-lined streets and avenues, and pleasant mixture of early Rhodesian and modern architecture give it a unique character.

Rhodes's original rondavel (inset I 2) which still stands in the gardens of Government House, is a link with the past, while imaginative modern structures such as the National Museum (inset I 3) are typical of Bulawayo today. Situated in Centenary Park, within walking distance of the city centre, the museum's modern galleries display one of the world's largest collections of Rhodes memorabilia, as well as collections reflecting the country's wild life and geology.

Adjacent to the museum is an exhibition of mining antiquaria. Also within Centenary Park is a small game park, aviary and miniature steam railway.

As capital of the province of Matabeleland, the city provides the visitor with a range of amenities (theatre, night-clubs, restaurants, cinemas, and shops) and a choice of accommodation (24 hotels and boarding houses) that one would expect of a city of 340 000 people.

The sporting scene is also a vigorous one, with fortnightly horse-racing at the Ascot racecourse, three kilometres from the city centre. Golf and bowls clubs welcome visitors and the standards of courses and greens is high. Club sport takes place every weekend, and rugby and cricket can be enjoyed during their seasons. The municipal swimming pool is of Olympic size, and is set within Centenary Park, within a few minutes' walk of the central hotels and caravan park.

Bulawayo is also a centre for communication by air, rail and road to the remainder of Rhodesia.



Bulawayo is particularly well provided with attractive park lands in which the visitor may relax, from the formal gardens of Centenary Park and Central Park, with its giant fountain (main picture, J) to the unspoiled woodland at Hillside Dam, a few kilometres from the city (main picture K).

One of Southern Africa's finest caravan parks (inset 4) is situated within Central Park where a 3,2 hectare site offers shady and open sites.

There is much for the visitor to see within the city. The City Hall (inset 1) stands on the site of the 1896 laager and houses many items of historical interest.

At the Mzilikazi Arts & Crafts Centre Onset 2), ceramic sculpture, pottery and crockery of a high artistic standard is created and sold. The centre may be visited during the mornings (or afternoons by special arrangement). There are also well-stocked curio shops in the city.

The Rhodesia Railways Museum houses engines (inset K 3), rolling stock and exhibits dating back to the earliest days of the country's history, including Cecil Rhodes's personal Pullman Coach and a complete station building.

For the visitor who enjoys dining out, the city offers a choice of restaurants, from Chinese (inset J 5) to Italian and Spanish. Nor should the visitor miss the pleasure of a large Rhodesian steak.

Twenty-two kilometres west of Bulawayo are the stone walls of the Khami Ruins (inset 6). It is believed that these extensive remains date from the 17th century, and were inhabited by the Rozwi people until about 1820. A small museum displays relics found at the site.



One of Southern Africa's finest caravan parks (inset K4) is situated within Central Park where a 3,2 hectare site offers shady and open sites.

There is much for the visitor to see within the city. The City Hall (inset K 1) stands on the site of the 1896 laager and houses many items of historical interest.

At the Mzilikazi Arts & Crafts Centre Onset K 2), ceramic sculpture, pottery and crockery of a high artistic standard is created and sold. The centre may be

visited during the mornings (or afternoons by special arrangement). There are also well-stocked curio shops in the city.

The Rhodesia Railways Museum houses engines (inset K 3), rolling stock and exhibits dating back to the earliest days of the country's history, including Cecil Rhodes's personal Pullman Coach and a complete station building.

For the visitor who enjoys dining out, the city offers a choice of restaurants, from Chinese (inset J 5) to Italian and Spanish. Nor should the visitor miss the pleasure of a large Rhodesian steak.

Twenty-two kilometres west of Bulawayo are the stone walls of the Khami Ruins (inset K 6). It is believed that these extensive remains date from the 17th century, and were inhabited by the Rozwi people until about 1820. A small museum displays relics found at the site.

THE MATOPOS



The Matopo Hills are unique. Lying 30 kilometres south of Bulawayo and covering about 2 000 square kilometres, this is an area of wind-sculptured granite hills alternating with cool green wooded valleys. It has been a place of retreat for centuries — for the bushman, who left a legacy of painted caves (inset L 1); for the Matabele, who fought a fierce rebellion here; and for the visitor who travels through its hills discovering its beauty and peacefulness.

70 square kilometres have been set aside as the Rhodes Matopos National Park, an area reserved for recreation, relaxation, and the conservation of its rich flora and fauna.

Cecil Rhodes loved this part of Rhodesia, perhaps because its contrasts matched the mixed character of this remarkable man. He chose his own burial place among giant boulders on the crest of a bare granite hill (main picture, L above). Also situated on this hill are the massive monument to the Allan Wilson Patrol (foreground picture L) and the graves of other early leaders.



On the shores of artificial lakes, National Park lodges, camping and caravan sites have been created (main picture, M lower right), and an extensive game park houses a wide variety of animals, including the white, or square-lipped, rhino (main picture M upper right). Other holiday accommodation is also available in the Matopos area.

A network of roads leads the visitor through this beautiful area, passing near massive, balancing rock formations (inset L2). These formations are that haunt of the dassie (rock rabbit) and the agile klipspringer, and in their most inaccessible heights the black eagles nest

On the return journey to Bulawayo the beautifully decorated Cyrene Mission Church (inset M3) may be visited. The interior and exterior walls of this small building are covered with colourful paintings executed by pupils of the mission school.


Back Cover of the booklet

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION

Local detailed information on the areas described in this brochure is provided by publicity associations. Enquiries relating to hotels, shopping facilities, banking and other services should be addressed to these associations, which maintain information bureaux.

Victoria Falls area: Victoria Falls Publicity Association, P.O. Box 97, Victoria Falls. Information Bureau: Parkway, Victoria Falls, phone 202.

Bulawayo and Matopos: Bulawayo and District Publicity Association, P.O. Box 861, Bulawayo. Information Bureau: Post
Office Building, Main Street, Bulawayo, phone 60867.

Wankie National Park: There is no publicity association for this area, but further information may be obtained from the
Department of National Parks & Wildlife Management's Central Booking Office, P.O. Box 8151, Causeway, Salisbury; Africa House, 100 Stanley Ave., Salisbury, phone 706077.

For information, maps and brochures on other parts of Rhodesia, enquiries should be made to the Rhodesia National Tourist Board, P.O. Box 8052, Causeway, Salisbury, Rhodesia, phone 706511. The Board also maintains offices in:

Johannesburg: Tower Mall Upper, Carlton Centre, Commissioner Street, phone 21-1541.

Durban: 315 Smith Street, Durban Club Place, Durban 2901, phone 323671.

Cape Town: 2219 Trust Bank Centre, cnr. Adderley and Riebeeck streets, phone 41-2774.

RHODESIA CALLS (PVT.) LTD. REPRINTED FROM RHODESIA CALLS BY MARDON PRINTERS, SALISBURY, FOR THE RHODESIA NATIONAL
TOURIST BOARD.

End of Article

Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Diarmid Smith. Thanks Diarmid

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.
Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail me on orafs11@gmail.com

Around Rhodesia No. 1

Zimbabwe Ruins - Lake Kyle - South Eastern Lowveld - The Eastern Highlands

ZIMBABWE RUINS

For over 100 years the Zimbabwe Ruins have been described as "one of Africa's greatest mysteries", and "the age-old riddle". Since their discovery in the mid-nineteenth century they have intrigued not only archaeologists and other specialists, but also the many visitors who have been attracted by the brooding atmosphere and the enigma of a vanished society.

Today, the scientific controversy is still not entirely resolved, although most expert opinion believes that Zimbabwe flourished from AD 1200 to 1450.

However, there is no questioning the fact that these are the largest single complex of ruins in Africa south of the Sahara.

The ruins of Zimbabwe were known to have existed as early at 1862. Adam Render, a hunter living in the area at that time, certainly knew of them, but their exact location was made known to the world by Carl Mauch in 1871.

Zimbabwe is believed to have been a mini-state, based on gold trade with the Arabs. Articles from China, India and Arabia have been excavated, and some are on display in a small museum at the ruins.

Among the most mysterious finds were the soapstone Zimbabwe birds (inset B2), which may have been chiefly totems.

The earliest ruins are to be found on what is called the Acropolis, a high hill where intricate dry-stone walls seem to cling precariously to the steep granite slopes, incorporating huge boulders in their course. Some of the most interesting archaeological finds were made in this complex of ruins.

From this lofty vantage point the visitor may look down on the Valley of Ruins (main picture above), where a number of individual ruins are dominated by the Temple, or Great Enclosure, with its walls over ten metres high.

The most striking feature within the Temple ruin is the Conical Tower (main picture left), which is 10 metres high with a base circumference of 17 metres. The purpose of this magnificent example of dry-stone masonry has defied explanation, although many scientific observers believe it was associated with fertility rites.

To wander through the many passageways in the ruins, always with the Acropolis hill towering over all (inset B3) is an opportunity for the visitor to speculate on the Rhodesia of the past. The compelling atmosphere of this ancient site is a memory that will always remain with the visitor.

Near the ruins is a reconstruction of a Karanga village, which illustrates the way of life of the local people at the time of the discovery of Zimbabwe. Huts and artifacts have been painstakingly re-created, and a potter may be seen at work making pots by the ancient African method — without the aid of a potter's wheel. A popular figure here is the witchdoctor, who will "throw the bones" and tell one's fortune (inset A1).

While the charm of Zimbabwe is its ancient origin and unspoiled setting, the visitor may enjoy, at a choice of hotels, the provision of modern amenities and comforts (inset B4). The caravaner and camper is also well provided for.



LAKE KYLE




Lake Kyle is an instance, all too rare in the 20th century, where man has enhanced nature and through economic necessity created an environment that is useful and beautiful and which has encouraged wild life to increase in both variety and numbers.

In common with all the many lakes in Rhodesia, Lake Kyle is man-made, created when the 60-metre-high Kyle Dam (inset C1) was built across the Mtilikwe River. The intention was purely utilitarian, as part of a vast water-storage system for the agricultural schemes in the South-Eastern Lowveld, but with 90 square kilometres of lake, bordered by mountains (main picture above), the tourist appeal of the area has been considerably enhanced.

The lake lies 35 kilometres from the historic town of Fort Victoria. This was the first town established by the Pioneer Column after it had laboured its way up from the low country that was then the domain of the warlike Matabele.

During the Matabele War and Matabele Rebellion in the 1890s it was an important strong point. In the centre of the town, two of the towers of the original pioneer fort still stand (inset C2), and each night the curfew bell is still rung, as it was in the days of danger now long past.

The pioneer museum in the town is well worth visiting, and there is a visitor-information bureau in the main street.

To protect the new natural resource created by Lake Kyle, the lake, and much of the land bordering it now form the Kyle Recreational Park. On the northern shore is an 8 900-hectare game park, which has been stocked with species from all over Rhodesia. The visitor may drive around the park and see a great variety of antelope, and also giraffe.

The largest species here is the white rhino, which have formed breeding groups.

A particularly exciting way of game- viewing is on pony trails operated by the Recreational Park's staff ( picture D, lower right). Within this reserve are lodges and a camping and caravan site.

The keen animal photographer has additional opportunities for close-ups at a private game farm on the southern shore of the lake. Here lion (picture D) young elephant (inset D4) and other species may be closely approached.

The lake has proved ideal for all water sports (inset C3) and yachting and power-boating clubs are very active. To enable the visitor to enjoy the lake scenery, establishments provide boats for hire, for conducted trips and for water-skiing.

For the fisherman, Lake Kyle provides the best fishing for black bass in the country, and an annual international competition attracts anglers from all over Southern Africa. In addition to the bass, there are many other species to provide good sport.

The motorist may drive around the lake on a scenic road that passes through a variety of scenery, passing through tribal trust land, skirting the Nyuni Mountains, and returning through Fort Victoria. This scenic route may be combined with a visit to the north bank game reserve, with the return to the southern shore being made by car ferry.




SOUTH-EASTERN LOWVELD



For untold centuries this great area, comprising Rhodesia's south-eastern corner, where the land falls away from the central plateau, lay fallow. It was the home of game animals and a handful of tribesmen who lived an isolated life. The region's harshness was their protection against invaders.

Each summer the short, life-giving rains turned the rivers into torrents. During the long dry season the river-beds were dry gullies, and the potentially fertile land lay exhausted, parched and brittle.

The key to the Lowveld's riches was water, and as the area's rainfall was low, it had to be supplied by irrigation. Fortunately, although the region is dry, approximately half of Rhodesia's rain flowed down the catchment areas of the three main rivers — the Sabi, Lundi and Limpopo.

With the expenditure of millions of dollars an impressive system of large dams has been created (Lake Kyle is one) in these catchment areas, and the precious water that was once lost each rainy season is now stored and used over the whole year.

The availability of this water has permitted the development of vast agricultural estates, carved out of virgin bush in recent years. Side by side with bushveld, the visitor may see plains of wheat (picture E left), fields of green sugar cane and processing factories (main picture, bottom left).

To provide the services necessary for this expanding area, an administrative centre has been created at Chiredzi, and among the amenities are two modern hotels. A regular air service also connects the Lowveld with other centres in Rhodesia.

For the motorist passing through Chiredzi, a diversion to the famous Chipinda Pools on the Lundi River may afford a view of hippo basking on the bank (inset E1).

While the vast agricultural development, covering thousands of hectares, is impressive, the South-Eastern Lowveld is still, basically, an undeveloped area, and away from the estates there are large areas of land which are still the home of a wide variety of game animals. As these animals exist on private land, a professional hunting service is offered to visitors all the year round.

CHIMANIMANI MOUNTAINS



Driving eastwards from Fort Victoria, or north from the South-Eastern Lowveld, the visitor passes through typical lowveld scenery, characterised by lean Mopani forests and the occasional giant baobab. The highlands which dominate Rhodesia's eastern border for over 300 kilometres appear only as a blue mass against a bluer sky.

The principal gateway to this area from the west is the 358-metre silver span of the

Birchenough Bridge, (inset F3), built in 1935. This bridge carries the visitor across the broad, sand banked Sabi River, marking an end to the lowveld.

Soon the foothills are reached, and the road, constantly climbing, passes through cool green tea estates to Gazaland and the Chimanimani Mountains ( picture F, top right).

These are the southern bastion of the Eastern Highlands, and the most rugged mountains in the country.

The superb peaks, rising to over 2 500 metres, dominate the eastern horizon of the small administrative township of Melsetter, the nearest centre to the mountains.

Among the other tourist sights of this border area are the beautiful, 50-metre-high Bridal Veil Falls (inset F2) and an eland sanctuary, where a small herd of this, the largest antelope, may be seen.

Driving northward to Umtali, the motorist may take one of Rhodesia's finest scenic roads, via Cashel (main picture bottom right).

UMTALI



The city of Umtali (population 52 000, all races) is set halfway along the line of the Eastern Highlands, where the roads from Melsetter, Salisbury and Inyanga meet. Situated among steep, wooded hills, and attractively laid out with wide, tree-lined streets, it lays a strong claim to be Rhodesia's most beautiful town.

Reinforcing this claim are its modern civic centre (picture G) and its extensive parks (inset G2).

A history of this part of the Eastern Highlands is graphically shown in the local museum, which also has a transport gallery showing examples of horse-drawn carriages (G1) and early locomotives.

The city offers good shopping, entertainment and sporting facilities, and a choice of modern hotels and camping and caravan facilities. There is also a visitor-information bureau.

Thirteen kilometres from Umtali is La Rochelle, the beautiful home of the late Sir Stephen and Lady Courtauld (picture G bottom). Here 14 hectares of gardens include rare orchids, unusual trees and ornamental shrubs.

The grounds display a variety of formal gardens and careful landscaping. There are also numerous water gardens, waterfalls and fountains — all within the setting of the forested Penhalonga Valley.

VUMBA MOUNTAINS



A few kilometres outside Umtali the road to the Vumba begins its scenic climb, winding through steep mountains and rolling farmland. At each turn, new vistas over the surrounding countryside are revealed, and viewpoints have been created at appropriate locations.

Twenty-nine kilometres from Umtali, after passing through the dense Bunga Forest, the colourful Vumba Botanical Garden is reached. Here there are 30 hectares of landscaped flower gardens set within a larger area of natural woodland on the eastern slopes of the mountains.

Indigenous and exotic flora provide year-round colour ( picture H top) and the hydrangeas, azaleas and fuchsias here are numbered in their thousands.

The name Vumba means "mist", and the sight from one's hotel of the mountain peaks appearing through morning clouds gives the area a fairy-like quality ( picture H bottom).

The hotels in this holiday area each have their individual charm and appeal (inset H3) and are well provided with recreational amenities. There are also caravan and camping facilities within the botanical gardens.

INYANGA MOUNTAINS



Inyanga has the distinction of being the location of Rhodesia's highest mountain, Mt. Inyangani (2 790 metres), and although part of the Eastern Highlands chain, has its own unique character. The elevation is generally high, but the country is open and accessible, and this has led to its establishment as a firm favourite with Rhodesians themselves.

In times past the mountains were a place of refuge for African tribes, under pressure from invading peoples and they have left their ruined settlements and forts (inset I2) as evidence of their long occupation. These ruins cover both upland and lowland areas at Inyanga.

There is also a strong historical association with Cecil Rhodes, for he was so attracted to Inyanga that he purchased an enormous estate, which on his death formed the nucleus of the Inyanga National Park. One hotel incorporates his old homestead within its structure.



Due to its abundance of clear rushing streams, trout have been introduced and have thrived, providing anglers with superb, and cheap, sport (inset J4). Small lakes have also been created and stocked, and, on the shores of some, National Park lodges have been built for holiday makers (picture J top).

The visitor to Inyanga may roam at will, and those interested in flora and fauna will find much of interest. The unique aloe inyangensis may be found on the slopes of the mountain from which it takes its name, and the dwarf msasa forests which clothe many westward-facing slopes are a botanical curiosity. Bird life in this region of forest and moorland is very rich, and birds of prey are particularly plentiful.

Scenic drives have been created throughout the park area, leading to a number of spectacular water falls (cover, and inset J5).

As a popular holiday area, the choice of accommodation is wide, from hotels (inset I1) to caravan and camping sites set within pine forests (inset I3). Recreational facilities are good and there are three golf courses at Inyanga. The golfer will find good courses at most centres described in this brochure.

For those interested in African crafts, a weaving centre in the valley below Inyanga provides the visitor with an opportunity to see how this fascinating work is done, and purchases of the thick sheep's wool rugs with traditional patterns may be made.

Here at Inyanga, as elsewhere in the Eastern Highlands, it is the scenery, above all, that captivates. The eye moves naturally to the horizon-wide vistas of mountain and plain ( picture I top) and the clear air encourages even the least energetic visitor to stroll along winding footpaths and through fragrant pine forests.



FOR FURTHER INFORMATION

Local, detailed information on the areas described in this brochure is provided by publicity associations in the two principal centres. Enquiries relating to hotels, shopping facilities, banking and other services should be addressed to these associations, which maintain information bureaux.

In the Fort Victoria, Kyle and Zimbabwe area, the Fort Victoria/Zimbabwe Publicity Association, P.O. Box 340, Fort Victoria, will supply all the information required, and provide local maps and brochures.

For the Eastern Highlands, the Manicaland Development & Publicity Association, P.O. Box 69, Umtali, will provide the same services.

For information, maps and brochures on other parts of Rhodesia, enquiries should be made to the Rhodesia National Tourist Board, P.O. Box 8052, Causeway, Salisbury, Rhodesia. The board also maintains offices in Johannesburg (Tower Mall Upper, Carlton Centre, Commissioner St.), Durban (315 Smith St., Durban Club Place), and Cape Town (2219 Trust Bank Centre, cnr. Adderley & Riebeeck Streets).

FOR MOTORISTS

While petrol rationing is in force in Rhodesia, visitors are permitted as much petrol as they require for an enjoyable motoring holiday. Petrol is available seven days a week, and in urban areas, until 8 p.m.

The maximum speed permitted on Rhodesian roads, outside the normal restrictions in urban areas, is 100 k/h. This applies to both cars and cars towing caravans or trailers.

Repair facilities are not normally available at Rhodesian garages on Saturday or Sunday. Emergency repairs are provided at the discretion of proprietors.

End of Article

© RHODESIA CALLS (PVT.) LTD. REPRINTED FROM RHODESIA CALLS BY MARDON PRINTERS, SALISBURY
FOR THE RHODESIA NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD.


Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Diarmid Smith. Thanks Diarmid

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.
Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail him on orafs11@gmail.com

Rhodesia's Eastern Highlands

FOR 300 kilometres. Rhodesia's eastern border with Mozambique is dominated by a series of dramatic and beautiful mountain ranges. They are a formidable natural barrier, and constitute a region that has a unique scenic character. Their names were given to them centuries ago, and they sound like an echoing African rhythm: Inyanga, Umtali, Vumba and Chimanimani.

In times past the mountains were a place of refuge for African tribes, under pressure from invading peoples, and they have left their ruined settlements and forts as evidence of their long occupation. Today these mountains fulfil a happier role, for they are one of Rhodesia's principal holiday areas and playgrounds.

Here the visitor may fish for trout in lakes and streams, ramble through dark forests, visit spectacular waterfalls and feel revived by the crisp mountain air.

The variety of scenery is almost infinite, from Rhodesia's highest mountain to deep gorges, from bare granite peaks to slopes richly clothed with forest growth, and from gentle downs to precipitous cliffs.

There is more to the Eastern Highlands than the spectacular scenery, however, for the flora to be found here Is diverse, and in many eases unique. At Inyanga the visitor will find the Inyanga aloe (A. inyongensis) growing only on the highest peaks, and the dwarf msasa forests found only on westward facing slopes. In the Vumba there are the extensive gardens of the national park, while in the Chimanimani Mountains tree and ground orchids are only two examples of a unique range. Further south In the Chirinda Forest are the giant red mahogany trees which are Rhodesia's largest form of plant life.

Wild life is also present in these unspoiled, lightly populated areas. Although not found in such numbers as in one of the many game reserves, duikers, bushbuck. the rare samango monkey, eland and sable are frequently seen. The bird life Is particularly prolific, for the forests and open heathland provides habitat for a great number of species. Eagles and other birds of prey are commonly seen.

Each area has its own character and attractions for the visitor, and the following pages, which deal with each In turn, provide a glimpse of some of the reality of the richness of Rhodesia's Eastern Highlands.



INYANGA Mountains
This impressive range forms the northern end of Rhodesia's Eastern Highlands. Reached by scenic highways, the area is a never-ceasing favourite with Rhodesians and visitors to the country. Here the eye moves naturally to the horizon-wide vistas of mountain, green forest and plain, and the clear air encourages even the least energetic visitor to stroll along winding footpaths and through fragrant pine woods. Man lived here long, long ago and over hundreds of square kilometres of Inyanga are the ruins marking an occupation that began 2 000 years ago. In more recent times, Cecil Rhodes visited this fresh, upland area, and purchased a large estate which was bequeathed to the nation on his death. Part of this estate became the Rhodes Inyanga National Park.


The densely wooded Pungwe Gorge, a spectacular view on one of Inyanga's scenic drives.


Inyanga offers the visitor a wide choice of hotels and cottage accommodation.
Several hotels offer full conference facilities. Above is the luxury Montclair Hotel,
at Juliasdale, which has its own golf course and trout-stocked lake.


The Nyangwe Fort, its grey stone enlivened by bright aloes, is one of Inyanga's
many ancient fortified sites that may be conveniently visited. Beyond,
Mt. Inyangani, Rhodesia's highest mountain (2 593 metres) hides its head in
the clouds.


National park lodges (left), cottages and chalets may be rented by visitors.
These are situated near trout lakes, waterfalls and scenic views, such as
the accommodation (below) set among shady pines on the shores of
the Mare Dam.


Mare Dam (refer to above photo.)


The Inyangombe Falls is just one of the many spectacular cataracts in the Inyanga area.


Within the Rhodes Inyanga National Park the streams and lakes
are stocked with trout (rainbow, brook and a local hybrid, tiger).
There are also private waters which may be fished, and the
Montclair and Troutbeck hotels have their own well-stocked lakes.


The elevation of the Inyanga area varies from 1 800 metres to 2 500 metres
above sea level.From roads that wind among the ranges, spectacular views
over the surrounding low country are obtained. One of the best-known
viewpoints is World's View (above).


In Inyanga's clear streams and rivers, bathing is completely
safe.
At the picturesque Inyangombe swimming pool the sandy
beach is ideal for children, and change rooms are provided.


Troutbeck Inn is set high in the mountains
on the shores of its private trout lake. Its
amenities include golf, bowls and trekking
on horseback.


Within the Rhodes Inyanga National Park are caravan parks
and camping sites, such as the Mare Caravan Park, pictured here.
Advance booking for Christmas, Easter, and Rhodes and Founders
holidays is essential, and is recommended for holidays at any other
time of the year.

UMTALI
The City 0f Umtali in the centre of the Eastern Highlands, is the country's eastern gateway and the capital of Manicaland.

Situated amongst steep, wooded hills, and attractively laid out with wide, tree-lined streets, it lays a strong claim to be Rhodesia's most beautiful city!

For the visitor, it provides ample, well-developed amenities, many features of interest and a warm welcome. The crossroads of a first-class highway system linking the different areas of the Eastern Highlands with the rest of Rhodesia, it is also a convenient centre from which to visit the Vumba Inyanga and Chimanimani mountains.


A sea of Namaqualand daisies in
Umtali's municipal park.
The city also has one of
the country's largest aloe gardens.


The statue of Kingsley Fairbridge as a boy,
set within a garden at the crest of
Christmas Pass.
This is a favourite viewpoint for visitors.


The motoring visitor will find that throughout the
Eastern Highlands wide, modern highways enable him
to travel swiftly and safely between main centres.
Here the Christmas Pass road takes the motorist
over the hills to the west of Umtali.


The attractive, mountain-ringed city of Umtali offers the traveller a full range of hotels and two caravan parks — a municipal park on Christmas Pass and Fiesta Park 3 km from the city on the road to the border post. Shopping facilities are good, and locally made leather and skin goods are of a high quality.


Umtali's modern civic centre includes (from left to right) the Courtauld Theatre,
the Turner Memorial Library, the Queen's Hall and the municipal offices.


One of the outstanding examples of modern architecture in Umtali is the Roman
Catholic Cathedral, in the centre of the city.


In Umtali's museum, vivid displays show life in Manicaland
in prehistoric and historic times. There are also galleries
devoted to transport (with early carriages and trains) and
the Boultbee collection of weapons.


Most hotels in the Eastern Highlands number a swimming pool
among their amenities, and in Umtali there is an Olympic- size
public pool.


"Vumba" means mist, and in the early morning the dark mountain peaks
seem surrounded by a white sea — soon to be dissipated by the warmth
of the rising sun.


Leopard Rock Hotel, one of four picturesque hotels in the Vumba area. Holiday
cottages are also available.


There is an interesting and scenic nine-hole golf course at Leopard Rock Hotel.
The course is open to non-residents.


Within the Vumba National Park is a
shady caravan park and camping site
with a swimming pool. Caravaner's should
be aware of the very steep approach roads
to the park.


The drive up into the mountains from Umtali provides the visitor
with extensive views, westward into Rhodesia and eastward into
Mozambique.

VUMBA Mountains
A few kilometres outside Umtali, the road to the Vumba starts its scenic climb, winding through steep, tree-clad mountains and rolling farmland. At each turn, new vistas over the surrounding countryside are revealed, becoming more dramatic as the summit is approached. Twenty-nine kilometres from Umtali, after passing through the dense Bunga Forest National Park, the colourful gardens of the Vumba National Park are reached.

Here the visitor will find his attention divided between the indigenous and exotic flora that surrounds him, and the views to the east over the Mozambique plain, almost a thousand metres below.


The Vumba National Park comprises 30 hectares of landscaped
garden set within a larger area of natural woodland on the eastern slopes
of the mountains. The annual displays of azaleas, fuchsias and hydrangeas
are particularly beautiful, but proteas, roses, gardenias, begonias, dahlias,
marigolds, stocks and antirrhinums provide colour throughout the year.


Leucospermum saxosum, a colourful
plant which also grows wild in the
Chimanimani Mountains.


In the centre of the developed area of the Vumba
National Park is this small lake, fed by numerous small
mountain streamlets, which also form small waterfalls
among the beds of plants.

CHIMANIMANI Mountains

These are the most dramatic mountains in Rhodesia, their rocky peaks reaching heights of over 2 400 metres. Among these mountains, declared a national park, are valleys inhabited only by an occasional herd of antelope, where the silence is broken by the rushing of waterfalls fed by mountain streams. This is a region of unspoiled and uncrowded natural beauty, accessible only to the hiker or climber who is prepared to carry his provisions and equipment on his back. For the less energetic, the small centres of Melsetter and Cashel are comfortable bases from which the visitor may enjoy, on scenic drives, the prospect of the mountains from below as they rise towards the border with Mozambique. These roads pass through forests of green pines and flowering wattle. Within easy driving distance of the mountains is the complete contrast of the sub-tropical Sabi Valley.


Chimanimani Mountains

The resort of Hot Springs, on the main road 82 kilometres
south of Umtali, has been created around a natural
thermal spring which is fed into a series of swimming
pools. There are also thermal springs at Rupisi,
in the extreme south of the Eastern Highlands.


The 50-metre-high Bridal Veil Falls
are situated within a pleasant five- kilometre
walk, or drive, of the village at Melsetter.


Facing the mountain range at Melsetteris the
32-room Chimanimani Hotel.
There is also a caravan and camping site with
limited facilities just outside the village.


On this village green at Melsetter is the appropriate
memorial to the pioneer treks to the area in the 1890s.
The main stone is of local origin and the inset boulders
are from the Sabi River where the old ox-wagons crossed.


On the northern edge of Melsetter village is an eland sanctuary,
where a large herd of these animals, the largest of the antelope,
may be seen.


For the energetic and experienced there is a challenge in traversing
the mountains themselves. A mountain hut provides dormitory
accommodation, and camping is permitted anywhere within the
Chimanimani National Park, at the camper's own risk. Persons
walking in the mountains should notify their hotel or the
attendant at the hut of their route and expected time of return.


One of the most beautiful scenic drives in the Eastern
Highlands is the 64-kilometre gravel road between the
small centre of Cashel and Melsetter.
The road is generally well maintained, but local confirmation
of the condition should be obtained.
At Cashel there is an hotel — Black Mountain Inn —
with a number of outdoor amenities.

CHIPINGA
The southernmost centre in the Eastern Highlands, Chipinga was established in 1893 by members of the Moodie Trek, the first pioneers to this part of Rhodesia. Today it is the nucleus of a thriving agricultural community famous for its cheese, tea and coffee. With its lush farmlands and plantations, the Chirinda Forest and ancient ruins, the Chipinga area has much to offer the visitor.


Thirty kilometres south of the town of Chipinga is the Chirinda Forest, 30 square
kilometres of primeval forest, one of the last remaining areas in Central Africa.


The Big Tree, the tallest tree in
Rhodesia (below), a red mahogany
over 60 metres high, may be seen
in the Chirindi Forest .


The road to the Eastern Highlands from Fort Victoria takes
the visitor over the 304-metre-span Birchenough Bridge
across the Sabi River 55 kilometres from the small southern
centre of Chipinga.


Much of Rhodesia's high-grade tea is grown in the Chipinga
area.The plantations are easily identified by the deep rich green
of the tea bushes often enlivened by the yellow clothing of the
lines of pickers.

End of Article

Recompiled, by Eddy Norris, from a copy of the booklet made available by Diarmid Smith. Thanks Diarmid
Booklet was Reprinted from Rhodesia Calls by Mardon Printers & distributed by the Rhodesia National Tourist Board
© Rhodesia Calls (Pvt.) Ltd.

The recompilation was done for no or intended financial gain but rather to record the memories of Rhodesia.
Thanks to
Paul Norris for the ISP sponsorship.
Paul Mroz for the image hosting sponsorship.
Robb Ellis for his assistance.

Should you wish to contact Eddy Norris please mail him on orafs11@gmail.com